Then & Now: A Journey Through Time
This year's Watches & Wonders novelties and the iconic references that inspired them
Watches and Wonders brought with it a wave of exciting novelties — fresh takes on iconic timepieces that have shaped horological history. In this special content series, we’re taking a sharp-eyed look at the latest releases by placing them side by side with their original references.
From subtle evolutions to bold reinterpretations, these comparisons highlight the design cues, technical upgrades, and brand storytelling that bridge past and present. Whether you're a vintage purist or a modern enthusiast, join us as we explore how time and taste have transformed these legendary models.
TAG Heuer Monaco: Racing Heritage Meets Ceramic Future
First introduced in 1969, the TAG Heuer Monaco Ref. 1133 made history as the world’s first automatic chronograph housed in a square, waterproof case. Powered by the revolutionary Calibre 11 and famously worn by Formula 1 legends, it quickly cemented its place as a motorsport icon.
Over 50 years later, the Monaco returns in a striking new form. Crafted in bold white ceramic, the latest edition features a skeletonised dial, a sapphire caseback, and an advanced split-seconds chronograph with rattrapante function. It’s a daring fusion of cutting-edge innovation and modern aesthetics – still unmistakably Monaco, but reimagined for today’s watch connoisseur.
IWC Ingenieur: Engineering Through the Ages
Originally launched in 1955, the IWC Ingenieur was designed with anti-magnetic protection in mind – crafted for scientists, engineers, and professionals operating in highly technical environments. Its iconic transformation came in the 1970s, when legendary designer Gérald Genta reimagined the model with an integrated bracelet and exposed bezel screws, giving it the bold and sporty identity we recognize today.
Fast forward to the present: The new Ingenieur Automatic 35 (IW324901) distills this legacy into a refined 35 mm case, equipped with an updated movement and a precisely aligned bezel at 12 o’clock. It’s a subtle yet sophisticated evolution and proof that when it comes to the Ingenieur, every detail is engineered for timeless appeal.
Rolex - Oysterquartz & Land-Dweller
Introduced in the late 1970s, the Rolex Oysterquartz Ref. 17013 stood apart with its quartz calibre and angular 36 mm case—offering a distinct alternative to the brand’s traditional automatic models. Its integrated bracelet and faceted design introduced a bold visual identity.​
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The 2025 Land-Dweller echoes the design language in a newly introduced reference, with a refined case profile and a fluted bezel now aligned at 12 o’clock. While visually reminiscent, it is powered by a newly developed automatic movement—the calibre 7440—featuring Rolex’s Syloxi silicon hairspring and a 66-hour power reserve.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41: A Bold Start, a Subtle Evolution
When it launched in 2020, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 Ref. 124300 made waves with its unexpected high-gloss yellow lacquer dial – a bold twist that injected fresh energy into one of Rolex’s most classic models.
Fast forward to 2025, and the latest iteration tones things down with a matte pastel beige dial, replacing the vibrant yellow. Alongside this more understated hue, the case and bracelet have been subtly refined for improved visual balance. It’s a quiet evolution in colour and form, one that stays true to the Oyster Perpetual’s timeless DNA while offering a more contemporary feel.
