From Scholar to Watchmaker

Ludwig Oechslin’s path to watchmaking started in the archives, not the atelier. Studying architecture and philosophy at university, he was drawn to the logic of ancient systems but found himself more at home in precision mechanics than in theoretical debate. The shift was natural – hands-on work had more appeal than abstract concepts. He apprenticed under master watchmaker Jörg Spöring in Lucerne, where a custom project for Ulysse Nardin ignited a collaboration that would quietly redefine haute horlogerie, merging historical insight with outstanding technical innovation. 

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Ulysses Nardin: A Daring Tradition

Founded in 1846 in Le Locle, Switzerland – where it remains today – Ulysse Nardin carried its heritage into the modern era under Swiss-German entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder’s direction. Through him, the storied watchmaker infused its longstanding tradition with daring innovation, pushing the boundaries of craft beyond specialised timepieces. It was Schnyder who first recognised and nurtured Oechslin’s extraordinary vision, turning a simple astrolabe project into the widely acclaimed Trilogy of Time collection – three pieces inspired by the geniuses of astronomy: Galileo Galilei, Copernicus, and Johannes Kepler. 

As Ludwig Oechslin explains, he had long admired Ulysse Nardin’s legacy of highly precise timepieces for ocean and nautical navigation, but he believed there was more to be explored. 

“The (Trilogy of Time) collaboration with Rolf Schnyder was what really led me to think – and maybe that became a personal philosophy of mine – that specialisation wasn’t enough.”

A Revolution in Haute Horlogerie

What particularly piqued Oechslin’s curiosity were calendar watches, whose centuries-old complications made them notoriously tedious to adjust, especially when setting them backward. 

Working to strip away unnecessary complexity and question established mechanisms, his research led him to the work of “priest mechanic” Philipp Matthäus Hahn. “I discovered that there were completely different options available. One idea was to work with only rotating parts to enable winding forward and backward. And so, I then focused on creating a perpetual calendar that can actually be adjusted forward and backward and is user-friendly.” 

The introduction of rotating movements in 1996 – where the barrel and mechanism moved as one – opened new possibilities. At Schnyder’s suggestion, Oechslin pushed further, looking to integrate a radical new escapement. But traditional components were too heavy, disrupting the smooth motion. A consultation with the technical university in Le Locle pointed to silicon – a material that would change everything. These elements combined paved the way for a quiet but undeniable revolution in timekeeping, where mechanics and minimalism merged into something entirely new. 

The Freak  

The turn of the millennium saw the arrival of the Freak, the first true concept watch – a radical departure that reshaped modern watchmaking. Launched in 2001, it eliminated the dial, hands, and crown, instead using its own movement to tell time. With avant-garde design and pioneering silicon technology, it was a manifesto that established Ulysse Nardin as a leader in contemporary horology. As UN Chief Product Officer Jean-Christophe Sabatier puts it, “The Freak is about stripping away the interface – the mechanism itself delivers the information. It’s a true concept watch, and those who are trusting us when they wear it aren’t just collectors; they’re shaping the concept.” 

To discover the full story behind the Freak, narrated by the legendary watchmaker who envisioned it, we invite you to watch the full episode of “Masters at Work | Ulysse Nardin.” 

Pushing the Limits of Craftsmanship

“We are a brand that thrives on pioneering new technologies, combining heritage codes with innovations that shape the future. Risk-taking is part of our culture,” says Jean-Christophe Sabatier. Staying true to its trailblazing ethos, Ulysse Nardin acquired Donzé Cadrans in 2011 – a workshop in Le Locle revered for its specialised mastery of rare, handcrafted enamel dials. Using time-honored techniques, artisans engrave unique patterns into the surface, applying brush pigments that bring each design to life. Among its most prestigious techniques are Grand Feu, Champlevé, and Cloisonné – each a testament to centuries-old craftsmanship. By combining ancestral savoir-faire with artistic expression and technical innovation, Ulysse Nardin continues to rewrite the rulebook of high watchmaking. 

Freak X Enamel – A Limited Edition

Bucherer is pleased to announce the Freak X Enamel, an exclusive 18-piece collaboration with longtime partner Ulysse Nardin. This limited edition reimagines the iconic Freak with a green Guilloché—an 18th-century technique in which a hand-operated machine carves intricate patterns into metal, creating dynamic lines and curves that catch and reflect light.