Bucherer

Curated Originals

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot's Watches Chronograph 3705

Welcome to 'Curated Originals', a series by Bucherer that showcases extraordinary and significant timepieces and contextualises why they are revered, celebrated pieces in horology today. The series will dive deeper into less common and seldom-seen watches to uncover the essence of their elevated status within culture today.

5 Minutes

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Prized for its hard surface, durable structure, smooth finish, and lightness, ceramic has become a staple case material among high-end watchmakers. However, in the 1990s, ceramic cases were still largely uncharted territory. When IWC introduced the Pilot's Watch Chronograph Ceramic ref. 3705 in 1994, the use of black zirconium oxide ceramic was ahead of its time, both technically and stylistically. Today, the reference 3705, affectionately known as the “Black Flieger,” is recognized as both an early adopter of the then-uncommon material and a collectible neo-vintage model that highlights a transitional moment in IWC’s design language. It set the stage for the brand’s future use of ceramic in its pilot watches.  

Though an early example of IWC’s ceramic watchmaking, the reference 3705 was not the first. That distinction belongs to the Da Vinci Chronograph Perpetual Calendar, introduced in 1986 as the world’s first black ceramic watch. This technical milestone marked the beginning of IWC’s enduring relationship with zirconium oxide ceramic, one that would go on to shape some of its most recognizable designs. Following the ceramic Da Vinci, it was perhaps only natural for IWC to explore how the high-tech material might lend itself to other collections.  

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Thus, the next chapter in IWC’s ceramic story unfolded with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 3705, featuring a 39mm black zirconia ceramic case. Contrasting with the matte finish of the case are polished stainless steel chronograph pushers and a matching winding crown. While those steel elements deliberately stand out, the case-matching black dial reinforces the stealthy character of this military-inspired aviation watch.

The dial is home to the characteristic Arabic numeral hour markers, punctuated with a day and date display at 3 o’clock, and recessed subsidiary dials at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. Notably, IWC made the date disc in several language options, including German, Italian, French, and English. Typical of 1990s-era watches, tritium was used for luminescence, which has since aged to a warm, creamy patina across the hands and dial accents, including the signature triangle at 12 o’clock.  

The 6/9/12 layout of the chronograph registers hints at the engine inside the watch: the IWC Caliber 7922, a heavily modified version of the tried-and-true Valjoux 7750 automatic movement, adjusted to meet the brand’s exacting standards and certified as a chronometer. Powering the hours, minutes, chronograph, day, and date, Caliber 7922 beats at 28,000 vibrations per hour and delivers a power reserve of approximately 44 hours. A solid stainless steel screw-down caseback protects the movement and is engraved with “DER FLIEGERCHRONOGRAPH” along with the IWC emblem at the center.  

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The ceramic-cased Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 3705 was released alongside its stainless steel counterpart, the reference 3706. While both models shared the same core functionality, IWC produced far fewer examples of the ceramic version; approximately 1,000 pieces from 1994 to 1998.

For years, the ref. 3705 remained an underappreciated gem within the IWC archives, known primarily to the brand’s keenest collectors. In today’s pre-owned market, however, the narrative has shifted markedly, as more enthusiasts turn their attention to neo-vintage pieces from the 1990s, defined by retro charm and modern performance. With its 39mm case, classic looks, tritium lume, and Valjoux 7750-based movement, the 3705 is both a product of its era and a forward-looking pioneer, underscoring what makes the neo-vintage segment so appealing. 

Interest in the 3705 was also bolstered in 2021, when IWC introduced the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705,” a modern reinterpretation crafted in the brand’s proprietary Ceratanium material. The revival not only recognized the historical relevance of the original but also reignited enthusiasm among collectors, elevating the 3705 to cult status.  

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With its forward-thinking use of materials, restrained yet purposeful design, and newfound appreciation among collectors, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Ceramic ref. 3705 now holds a well-earned place in the brand’s legacy. No longer a footnote in IWC’s history, the 3705 represents a pivotal moment of experimentation and transition. Thanks to the inherent durability and scratch resistance of ceramic cases, surviving examples of the 3705 often appear remarkably well-preserved despite their age. As the original test case for ceramic IWC pilot timepieces, this is the model that laid the groundwork for the brand’s many modern ceramic offerings.