Atelier
It Takes a Village in Lucerne
They say no man is an island, and at Bucherer Fine Jewellery, neither is any piece of jewellery. Every creation that leaves the atelier has been touched by the hands of a veritable village of artisans. The result is a perfectly harmonious tapestry woven by their collective expertise.
Illustrations by Alexandre Luu.
It All Starts With a Stone
1. Acquisitions
In order for a diamond to make it to the Acquisitions team, it must receive an “Excellent Cut” rating by the GIA. Whether it is tasked with procuring diamonds or coloured gemstones, this highly skilled team decides which ones are suitable to carry the name of the Maison.
Picture This
2. Jewellery Designer
It’s not always the stone that inspires the design. Sometimes, the design inspires the stone. Either way, once the decision is made, the Maison’s jewellery designers put pen to paper, drafting and redrafting sketches of the final creation. The drawing is then transformed into a CAD (computer-aided design) to create moulds, check proportions, test mechanics, and ensure the design will work in real life.
When Ideas Take Shape
3. Model Maker
The days of wax models aren’t over, but model makers have many new technologies at their disposal to create the master model from which the final piece will be crafted. These innovations include CAD software and 3D printers. In the realm of fine jewellery, model makers often specialise in certain model-making techniques and jewellery designs.
From Metal to Masterpiece
4. Goldsmith
From master model to precious metal, the goldsmith brings the piece’s structure to life. Working in gold, platinum, or other precious metals, they shape, solder, and assemble each component with microscopic precision, often using their hands and eyes as their only guides. Their mission is to balance beauty and durability, laying the perfect foundation for the stones to come.
Places, Everyone!
5. Stone Setter
With steady hands, the stone setter secures each gemstone into its designated place, whether in a simple prong or an intricate pavé. Their work demands absolute precision—too much pressure can crack more delicate gemstones (like emeralds and tanzanites), too little, and they may loosen over time. The result is a flawless marriage of stone and metal.
Let There Be (More) Light
6. Polisher
Once the goldsmith and stone setter have finished their work, the polisher brings the jewel to its full radiance. Using a series of fine abrasives and polishing wheels, they smooth every surface, clean every edge, and coax out the metal’s natural lustre. In high jewellery, polishing is not only about shine. It’s about radiating perfection from every angle.
The Measure of Mastery
7. Quality Control Technician
Before any creation leaves the atelier, it must satisfy the Maison’s uncompromising standards. The Quality Control Technician inspects every detail under magnification, checking stone security, metal finish, symmetry, and wearability. Only when a piece meets the exacting criteria of the Maison is it considered finished.
