How a Ban Sparked the Rise of a Daring Design 

The concept of the cocktail ring originated in 1920s America, during the era of Prohibition. In October 1919, the U.S. Congress passed the Volstead Act, also known as the National Prohibition Act, which banned the production, distribution, sale, and consumption of alcohol. However, the law did little to diminish desire. Soon, so-called speakeasies began to flourish—hidden bars where entry required a personal connection and a whispered password at the door. It was the birth of the cocktail and the dazzling parties that came with it, where the drinks were as bold and vibrant as the guests. 

Women, in particular, emerged in a new light. They shed their corsets and wore make-up, expressive jewellery, and shorter hair and skirts, signalling, both literally and figuratively, that they were now standing on their own two feet. These women became known as "flappers"—a term from the 1920s for young women who wore knee-length skirts, listened to jazz, danced the Charleston with fluttering arms and dresses, and prevailing rules of behaviour with self-confidence. For the first time, women began frequenting bars. With the economic upswing came a renewed joie de vivre, and cocktail rings were designed to capture exactly that spirit: vibrant, playful, and dazzling; they now sparkled on the hands of modern women. They became a subtle nod to the cocktail party culture—worn always on the right hand and often on the index or middle finger to avoid confusion with engagement rings. Women themselves purchased cocktail rings, and the saying went, the more radiant the ring, the more intriguing the wearer. 

Embodying the principle of "the bigger, the better," these rings were typically crafted from gold or platinum and featured the Big Three coloured gemstones—emerald, ruby, and sapphire—in impressive carats that are rarely seen today. These jewels were often surrounded by diamonds set in pavé or coloured gemstones in an ombré effect, which represents a transition from light to dark or vice versa. 

A New Era of Expression: How the Flappers Influenced Society and Jewellery Design 

Society itself was transforming. The Golden Twenties brought not only cinema, cars, trains, radio, jazz, and Prohibition but also prosperity. Women such as Barbara Hutton, Daisy Fellowes, and Mona von Bismarck sought jewellery in the 1920s and 1930s that clearly distanced them from the image of the Victorian woman. They wanted pieces that embodied their newfound freedom. They lived where they pleased, travelled where they wished, and chose jewellery that didn't have to appeal to anyone but themselves.  

These women formed part of the "Café Society": the bohemian crowd of aristocrats and socialites who gathered in fashionable cafés and restaurants in New York, Paris, and London. 

A Brilliant Icon: What Makes the Cocktail Ring Enduringly Captivating 

To this day, the cocktail ring remains the ultimate eye-catcher, still carrying the spirit of freedom and independence. With its luxurious and extravagant appearance, it has endured across decades. Though interest in the style faded slightly in the 1970s, it resurged in the 1980s when big hair, bold shoulder pads, and, of course, statement jewellery became symbols of a self-confident woman. 

At Bucherer, this "forbidden" jewel is both celebrated and reinterpreted. In keeping with the vibrant energy of the Roaring Twenties, every piece in our collection honours the tradition of self-expression, centred around a richly coloured, opulent gemstone that draws the eye with its brilliance, presence, and intensity. 

Aligned with the radiant legacy of the cocktail ring and executed with an innovative spirit, the gradient colour transitions of our designs add volume and luminous depth, amplifying the fire of the central stone. The result is an enduring icon of jewellery history: distinct, bright, and unmistakably alive.