Often credited as the first pilot's watch, the Santos was conceived in 1904 after Alberto Santos-Dumont approached Louis Cartier, requesting a more practical, hands-free timekeeping method instead of pulling out a pocket watch. Since then, the Santos has never stopped evolving, with movements, dials, cases, and executions shifting in philosophy while maintaining a core identity built around large Roman numerals, blued hands, a shaped case, and a silver dial.
Cartier's aesthetic is one of the most recognisable cultural designs to have ever been produced, and throughout the many expressions it has adopted over the decades, it stands as a great exhibit of restraint and knowledge of exactly what not to change.

Reference 2960: The Compact Cultural Classic (1980s to Early 2000s)

Before larger and more boldly styled watches were en vogue, Cartier produced the reference 2960. This Santos played an instrumental role in the expansion of the brand's appeal by introducing a new wave of watch collectors to watchmaking. The 2960 was one of the first significant moments Cartier interjected into culture in the late 20th century as the character of Gordon Gekko in the movie Wall Street (1987) wore an 18k yellow gold 2960. While on paper the 29mm width, Roman numerals and heat blued hands obey classic La Maison tenets and traditional proportions, the 2960 is one of the key watches from the 1980s that pushed the brand and industry forward towards a new era of watch appreciation that prioritised sporty aesthetics. Some of the key elements that established the 2960's relevance include its polished square bezel with exposed screws, paired with the matching exposed screw bracelet.

This model is rendered in stainless steel, delivering the right balance of discreet, refined, and versatile presence with an iconic appearance that didn't just reflect an era of fashion and culture, but helped shape it.

Reference W20098D6: The XL Statement (Early to Mid-2000s)

As watch tastes leaned toward larger cases and more assertive profiles into the 2000s, Cartier responded with the W20098D6, also known as the Galbée XL. While the dial and bezel remain instantly recognisable as a Santos, the proportions were meaningfully increased. The XL has a presence that stands taller than the 2960 on the wrist and within Cartier's catalogue. However, despite its size increase, the XL maintains the overall design execution of the predecessors. These size changes do however, impact design proportions, as the relationship between the case, bezel, and lugs is modified to reflect its XL name.

This reference built upon the curvaceous silhouette introduced in earlier Galbée models, gently wrapping around the wrist while adding visual weight. This example is another stainless steel reference that echoes the familiar Santos palette, but in a size that felt more in step with the era's sportier leanings. A subtly scaled-up take on the well-loved Santos DNA.

Reference W200737G: Putting the X in XL (2004 - 2017)

Arriving in the early 2000s, as part of Cartier's celebration of the model's 100th anniversary, this generation of XL has bolder proportions and built upon the 2000s penchant for larger, more assertive watches defined by the afore W20098D6. At 38 mm wide and a lug-to-lug span of around 51 mm, it's a model that wears significantly on the wrist. Not only have the dimensions increased over earlier models, but the balance of each feature has also been altered, with the polished bezel commanding more presence and the now black hands featuring luminescence. The XL is certainly Cartier's answer to the larger watch wave of the 2000s, refined, but unmistakably more striking than earlier iterations. This example is realised in stainless steel and comes fitted on the exposed screw bracelet.

Reference WSSA0018: The Forward-Thinking Modern de Cartier (2018–Present)

In 2018, Cartier debuted an entire reimagination of the Santos, not by re-writing the past but refining it into a more contemporary and timeless style. The WSSA0018 was the flagship of this era. The bezel has been redesigned to soften the square profile by seamlessly blending into the lugs, resulting in a more natural and classically luxurious refinement of the Santos. The Santos de Cartier also sees the introduction of the brand's "QuickSwitch" system, enabling the ability to swap the steel bracelet for a leather strap in seconds. Once paired with Cartier's "SmartLink" adjustment system, allowing tool-free sizing, these two quiet innovations improve the wearing experience exponentially.

 

Across these references, Cartier has never strayed far from the essence of the Santos. While sizes have changed, bezels have been refined, and movements updated, the fundamentals endure. The exposed screws. The square form. The harmony between elegance and function. The bracelet, with its visible screws linking each beautifully finished link, reinforces this signature interplay of form and engineering. Cartier has an aesthetically-driven approach to the craft of watchmaking and design, and it's the same with the Santos, a model that, despite its age, comes into its own and reflects each decade's tastes, trends, and sensibilities perfectly – a true master of the eternal.