There’s something about daring watchmaking that, when delivered correctly, excels not only by implementation but for the brilliance it promises. It doesn’t solely depend on utility or heritage, but by an unmistakable and commanding presence. The Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116748SARU is one such piece. Nestled distant from the tool-watch origins of the GMT line, this model pivots the conversation toward rarity and the layered complexity of what horology can mean today.

The world of gem-set Rolex models could be a story in itself, with models such as the 127286TBR Land Dweller replacing baton markers with baguette-cut diamonds on one end of the scale, and incredible references such as the 126538TRO Daytona existing only as a very rare model. And then, sitting somewhere in the middle, is the 116748, a bold execution of Rolex’s travel watch. First debuting around 2007 and believed to be initially for the Greater China market, the 116748 was released alongside other gemstone-set variants such as “SARU” for sapphire and ruby, referencing the stones used throughout the bezel. At this point in Rolex’s timeline, gemsetting at the Coronet wasn’t unfamiliar territory, as many references of the Day Date had decades of reference adorned with stones to its name. In the 1980s, the first GMT Master ‘SARU’ 16758 was produced, 30 years after the GMT Master was born.  

During aviation’s golden age, Pan American, widely known as Pan Am, was the foremost international airline. As long-haul flights increasingly became the norm in the mid-1950s, they approached Rolex to craft a wristwatch that could display multiple time zones simultaneously for its globe-trotting pilots. Rolex responded with a fourth hand that completed one full rotation every 24 hours, paired with a bi-directional 24-hour scale bezel. This marked the arrival of the GMT-Master, a tool built for the jet age. Like all of Rolex's models, over the years and decades, the GMT Master's status has evolved into becoming one of the leading sports watches by the brand. 

With the 116748, its full 18ct yellow gold case and bracelet are already adequately striking, but the array of factory-set baguette blue sapphires and red rubies encircling the bezel, only interrupted by a carefully measured placement of clear diamonds, makes this one of the boldest GMT executions Rolex has crafted. Each gemstone is chosen for hue and clarity, graduated precisely, ensuring the whole arc flows seamlessly from one tone to the next. There’s an architectural sense of balance, a design expression that relies on aesthetics and Rolex’s control over its sourcing and gem-setting disciplines. 

Unlike references such as the 126710BLRO in stainless steel, this particular iteration isn’t overtly designed to serve pilots or adventurers. Instead, it showcases a different prowess, exploring how far the versatility of the Coronet’s sports watches can stretch. It’s proof that Rolex, a brand often perceived as patient in its evolution, can surprise when it lifts the veil. But the 116748 isn’t just a wrist ornament. While the gem-setting catches the eye, behind lies a dependable calibre that beats within its more restrained siblings: the calibre 3186. With its dual time zone functionality and robust reliability, with Rolex, superlative performance is always the foundation of its production. 

While the Coronet's origins are founded upon function first, today a Rolex stands as more than just its purposeful excellence. With the 116748, Rolex successfully merges the two fundamental pillars of the manufacturer today.