ROLEX, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, VACHERON CONSTANTIN, BLANCPAIN AND IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
Certified Pre-Owned Watches: "Hour Favourites" by Binh Tran from Bucherer Basel
The most rewarding watches to collect are those that combine technical excellence with a compelling story. Whether tied to a significant moment in horological history, an iconic design, or a personal connection, these are the timepieces that leave a lasting impression. As Senior Client Advisor for Certified Pre-Owned & Masterworks at Bucherer Basel, Binh Tran draws on years of expertise and a deep appreciation for watchmaking to guide clients towards exceptional watches distinguished by their character, heritage, and craftsmanship.
4 Minutes
A Curated Selection from Bucherer Basel
For this edition of Hour Favourites, Binh presents five watches that stand out for their historical significance, distinctive design, and enduring appeal among collectors. From a milestone Rolex Submariner and the automotive-inspired innovation of Jaeger-LeCoultre, to a defining chapter in Vacheron Constantin’s sports watch legacy, the refined complications of Blancpain, and one of the rarest creations ever penned by Gérald Genta for IWC, each watch tells a fascinating story. Carefully selected for their individuality and historical significance, these watches reflect the exacting standards of the Bucherer Certified Pre-Owned programme.
Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX1 Aston Martin
“The Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX1 is a fascinating blend of fine watchmaking and automotive passion,” Binh explains.“ As the first model to emerge from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s partnership with Aston Martin, launched in 2004, it introduced a unique identity inspired by one of the world’s most prestigious car manufacturers. At its heart is the legendary alarm complication, continuing the tradition of the famous Memovox watches that helped establish Jaeger-LeCoultre’s reputation for innovation. The dial draws direct inspiration from the instrument gauges of classic Aston Martin sports cars, while the lightweight titanium case features an engraved Aston Martin logo on the caseback. Adding another thoughtful detail, the original strap was crafted from Bridge of Weir leather, the very same material used in the interior of the Aston Martin DB9. For collectors who appreciate both horology and motoring history, it offers a distinctive connection between the two worlds.”
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
“The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ref. 42040 represents an important chapter in the evolution of luxury sports watches,” says Binh. “Produced between 1996 and 2004, this 37 mm reference was the original first-generation Overseas and the direct successor to the legendary Vacheron Constantin 222. Its integrated design, distinctive bezel, and matching steel bracelet create an elegant yet sporty character, while the caseback is beautifully engraved with the Amerigo Vespucci three-masted yacht. Inside, the watch is powered by a COSC-certified automatic movement featuring a slim construction and an 18-carat gold rotor. Examples from the transitional period around 2000 are particularly interesting, as Vacheron Constantin was moving from tritium to Luminova luminous material. For collectors seeking an important and refined alternative within the integrated-bracelet category, the Overseas Ref. 42040 remains a significant reference.”
IWC Ingenieur SL ”Jumbo”
“The IWC Ingenieur SL ‘Jumbo’ Ref. 1832 is one of the great collector’s watches of the twentieth century,” Binh explains. “Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, who also created icons such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, it introduced the integrated steel bracelet and distinctive five-hole bezel that define the model to this day. Production numbers were exceptionally low, with only around 534 stainless-steel examples produced between 1976 and the end of production in 1983. The 40 mm case was considered exceptionally large for its era, earning the watch its ‘Jumbo’ nickname, while a soft-iron inner case provided outstanding protection against magnetic fields of up to 80,000 A/m. Powered by IWC’s in-house Pellaton automatic Calibre 8541ES, it offers both technical excellence and historical importance. For collectors interested in Gérald Genta’s work beyond the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the Ingenieur SL remains a particularly significant reference.”
Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde
“The Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde is a wonderful example of how sophisticated complications can be presented with remarkable elegance,” Binh notes. “One of its most distinctive features is the retrograde day display, where the weekday is shown along an arc before the hand instantly snaps back to Monday at the end of the week. Complementing this is a highly legible large date display at 6 o’clock, presented across two separate discs. The automatic movement offers an impressive 72-hour power reserve and benefits from an antimagnetic silicon balance spring, combining practicality with modern performance. Visually, the watch is equally refined, featuring a 40.5 mm case crafted from 18-carat red gold, Blancpain’s signature double-stepped bezel, and a beautiful opaline dial. It is a watch that showcases Blancpain’s approach to pairing practical complications with refined design.”
Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680
“The Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680 is a watch that holds a very special place in both Rolex history and my own,” says Binh. “As the first Submariner to feature a date complication and the now-iconic Cyclops lens, it marked a significant evolution of one of the world’s most celebrated dive watches. What makes this reference particularly notable among collectors is the striking red ‘Submariner’ text found on examples produced around 1970, a small detail that has become one of the model’s most sought-after characteristics. For me, it is even more meaningful because 1970 is also my birth year. Combining historical significance, strong collector appeal, and a personal connection, the Ref. 1680 remains a truly remarkable watch.”
For a closer look at the milestones that shaped this iconic dive watch, explore our article on The Evolution of the Rolex Submariner Date.
