A Shimmering Mosaic of Gemstones

Pavé, the French word for 'paving stone' or 'cobblestone,' perfectly encapsulates this intricate jewellery setting technique. Like stones fitted tightly together in a cobblestone street, pavé involves setting diamonds or gemstones so closely that the metal holding them becomes nearly invisible. Each stone is secured by delicate metal beads or prongs that contribute to a continuous surface of glistening light. This technique appears across all categories of fine jewellery, from delicate wedding bands and statement earrings to sculptural pendant necklaces.

While pavé always brings a sense of brilliance and refinement, there are several variations of the technique. Thread pavé, for instance, places stones in linear rows. For larger surfaces, gemstones are often set in a honeycomb or checkerboard pattern, especially with stones of equal size.  For a pavé design that incorporates mixed stone sizes, snow-setting pavé is an ideal choice. Though each style requires a different approach, all share the same goal: to create a seamless, sparkling surface that amplifies brilliance.

“When it comes to pavé settings, it is always the big picture that counts. It is not the individual stone alone, but the perfect interplay of all the stones together that is decisive. Each stone must fit exactly with the neighbouring row.”

— Michael Bühler, Head of Production Engineering at Bucherer Fine Jewellery

A Collaborative Effort Between Artisans

To bring pavé-set jewellery piece to life, a team of skilled artisans collaborate closely together at Bucherer’s Fine Jewellery Ateliers. The designer sketches the vision, the goldsmith crafts the underlying structure, and the gemstone setter places each stone with exacting precision onto the metal to achieve perfect harmony. It is a methodical process that demands many concentrated hours.

The setter’s work is perhaps the most exacting. Using specialised tools, they carve delicate spaces where each stone will rest. One by one, the stones are put into place and their positions refined until the surface glimmers with perfection.  Even a misstep as small as a fraction of a millimetre can shift the harmony of the whole pieceThrough this process that requires patience, focus, and artistry, the jewellery piece gradually reveals its full luminous potential.

Commitment to Craft and Light

How pavé is used in a jewellery piece depends on the design. Sometimes, it plays a supporting role in framing and amplifying a single central gemstone. Other times, the tapestry of glittering stones becomes the focal point itself. The choice of stone sizes can add its own flair. Smaller gems create a flowing, fabric-like surface, while larger ones bring liveliness and texture. Pavé is especially striking when diamonds meet white gold, their colours blending into each other as if metal and stone appear as one. Coloured gemstones, on the other hand, create a captivating contrast with the precious metal.

Bucherer's Toi et Moi ring features a 2.85 ct. fancy pink pear-shaped diamond in dialogue with a 2.21 ct. flawless pear-shaped diamond. Both are embraced by a halo of 307 brilliant-cut pavé diamonds that gracefully follow the finger’s curve. Whether it serves as an accent or the centrepiece, pavé shows how countless small elements, when perfectly placed, can create something far more enchanting than their individual parts.