Martin Julier on fashionable and classic gemstones
At the moment, the most fashionable gemstones are the light blue aquamarine and pink morganite. Like emerald, they belong to the beryl family.Martin Julier, Head of the Gemological Laboratory at Bucherer AG
An interview with Head Gemologist Martin Julier
Martin Julier, Head Gemologist at Bucherer
Mr Julier, are gemstones also subject to trends, and if so, how do these tendencies arise?
So why is emerald in demand again?
It is clear from our retailers’ product ranges that emerald is undergoing an encouraging renaissance. Even individual mine operators are marketing the intense green stones. The result of these developments is that the prices for high-quality emeralds are rising.
So gemstones are also an interesting investment at the moment?
Why is that?
For one thing, because the resources in the well-known mines run out. A good example of this is Myanmar. People have been finding gemstones there for 2,000 years. Every king and emperor in the world has gemstones from Myanmar in his crown. But mining over such a long time means that stocks gradually begin to run out. Fewer and fewer rubies and sapphires are found, and this drives up prices. The other reason is the change in demand. In booming countries such as India and China, more and more people have the money to afford things like this, and that is immediately noticeable on the gemstone market.
Relationships with gemstone suppliers that have grown over many years are particularly valuable to us. I have some suppliers which already worked with my predecessor 25 years ago.Martin Julier, Head of the Gemological Laboratory at Bucherer AG
Setting a colour gemstone
Where do you buy the stones?
Relationships that have grown over many years are also enormously valuable. I have some suppliers which already worked with my predecessor 25 years ago. You do not meet these people at the trade fairs but at unremarkable offices somewhere in Bangkok. We can buy rarities there that are not even shown at the trade fairs.