In Bucherer's studios, craftspeople work hand in hand and, thanks to their physical proximity, maintain a steady exchange of ideas. The gemologist and goldsmith do the preparatory work needed by the gemstone setter. Together, they ensure that the chosen gemstone goes perfectly with the piece and generates maximum effect.
Selection and precision
Experience is infinitely important in a good gemologist. As part of their highly demanding jobs, our gemstone buyers identify stones and their provenance, and assess their quality and value. The process begins with a purely aesthetic appraisal: inensity of color, clarity, transparency and perfect cut. Whenever our gemologists see a stone, they are able to form a mental idea of the piece that would set it off to perfection. Working closely with the designers in our workshops, they develop these ideas until we have a detailed drawing of the piece in question. This serves as a template for the goldsmith and the gemstone setter.
Once the gemologist, designer and goldsmith have finished their part of the process, it is the turn of the gemstone setter. He places the selected stones into the pre-formed setting. Using his burin, cutter and presser, he ensures that the gemstones fit tightly. Every diamond, sapphire and ruby should be displayed in its best light. The prongs must be bent in such a way that they cannot be felt when a hand is run over the finished piece. The pressure used is crucial. The stone must not be damaged in any way and should last for ever. Gemstone setting is an exclusively manual job. It calls for immense concentration, steady hands and a finely developed flair for form and design.